Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca sangat kecewa dengan pencicipan tahun 2009 ini, mengutip kegagalan pembuat anggur untuk mengatasi betapa sulitnya vintage sebagai salah satu alasan untuk pertunjukan 'suram' ini.
'Beberapa tahun 2009-an membenarkan optimisme tentang umur panjang mereka, dan sebagian besar produsen berbicara tentang tahun 2009 sebagai vintage untuk minum dalam jangka pendek'
Model tahun 2009 dari Barolo akan menghadapkan konsumen dengan beberapa kebenaran pahit dan beberapa anggur pahit. Saya mencicipi lebih dari 200 contoh Barolo 2009 di Nebbiolo Prima di Alba pada bulan Mei. Mayoritas anggur yang ditawarkan selama lima hari acara tidak hanya tidak memiliki warna klasik Nebbiolo tetapi hampir tidak menunjukkan aroma atau rasa Nebbiolo.
Saya suka Barolo, dan saya menghormati serta mengagumi banyak produsernya atas dedikasi dan kejelasan visi mereka. Namun, saya harus mengatakan bahwa di masa lalu ini kinerja banyak dari mereka tidak hanya kurang, tetapi juga suram.
Tentu saja ada pengecualian: beberapa produsen - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, untuk beberapa - ternyata Barolo yang cukup bisa diminum. Beberapa - terutama Pio Cesare dan Massolino-Vigna Rionda - bahkan percaya pada potensi penuaan anggur mereka. Pendapat itu sering digaungkan oleh pedagang dan pembeli, yang mencicipi anggur pilihan ini seminggu lebih awal dari jurnalis, dan dengan produsen (tidak buta). Tapi menurut selera saya - dan menurut pendapat banyak jurnalis yang saya ajak bicara - sebagian besar pembuat Barolo tampaknya sangat meremehkan kesulitan vintage ini. Beberapa tahun 2009-an membenarkan optimisme tentang umur panjang mereka, dan sebagian besar produsen berbicara tentang 2009 sebagai vintage untuk minum dalam jangka pendek.
Giacomo Conterno, dari kilang anggur Aldo Conterno di komune Monforte, adalah salah satu produsen yang lebih vokal. Dia berkata: '2009 adalah vintage winegrower. Pada akhir Agustus, beberapa tanaman merambat [Nebbiolo] sudah hampir matang, dan beberapa benar-benar mentah - perbedaannya hampir 30 hari. Apa yang Anda lakukan tentang itu menentukan jenis anggur yang Anda buat. 'Penilaian Consorzio yang biasanya optimis tentang panen tahun ini sangat dijaga:
'Model tahun 2009 juga akan diingat karena pola pematangannya yang tidak teratur ... Dalam hal pematangan teknologi, model tahun dapat ditempatkan antara tahun 2003 dan 2007 ... Berkenaan dengan pematangan fenolik ... data yang ditemukan dalam buah anggur sebanding dengan tahun 2003 ... dalam model vintage ini, hasil tidak selalu meningkat dengan menunda panen. '
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Ditulis oleh Tom Maresca
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