Champagne crus menikmati eksklusivitas mereka, namun 17 kebun anggur grand cru sebagian besar masih belum diketahui. GILES FALLOWFIELD menanyakan apa yang dibawa masing-masing ke meja, dan mengapa mereka tidak muncul di label.
Champagne memiliki banyak kesamaan dengan Burgundy, tetangga kebun anggur terdekatnya. Champagne crus memiliki varietas anggur Pinot Noir dan Chardonnay yang sama dan karenanya, jika Anda dapat melihat melampaui gelembung di Champagne, hasilkan anggur dengan profil rasa yang serupa. Keduanya menggunakan sistem penilaian kualitas yang sama, dengan kebun anggur teratas di setiap sebutan ditetapkan sebagai grand cru, dan premier cru tingkat berikutnya di bawah.
Namun, meskipun di Burgundy istilah grand dan premier cru tertulis dengan jelas pada label sebagian besar wine yang berhak menggunakannya, istilah tersebut tidak muncul di banyak botol Champagne. Mengapa tidak? Sebagian karena di era modern, penjualan Champagne crus didominasi oleh nama merek seperti Moët & Chandon, Laurent-Perrier, dan Veuve Clicquot. Akibatnya, konsep grand cru Champagne belum benar-benar dikembangkan. Tetapi konsumen lebih cenderung menemukan istilah-istilah ini di masa mendatang.
Jadi, apa itu grand cru Champagne, mengapa tidak lebih banyak anggur yang dijual seperti itu? Dan mengapa kebun anggur terbaik Champagne tidak setenar orang-orang seperti Chambertin, Clos Vougeot, dan Le Montrachet?
Di Champagne, semua 318 desa dinilai kualitasnya dalam sistem Echelle des Crus (secara harfiah berarti 'tangga pertumbuhan') dan diberi peringkat klasifikasi antara 100 dan 80% (peringkat terendah). Sekitar 257 di antaranya dinilai antara 80 dan 89. Satu anak tangga yang lebih tinggi adalah 44 premiers crus, yang klasifikasi mereka berkisar dari 90 hingga 99. Puncak tumpukan adalah 17 desa grand cru, semuanya dinilai 100% di Echelle des Crus.
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