Terroir adalah salah satu kata-kata desas-desus yang dianut semua orang di dunia anggur, tetapi apa artinya sebenarnya? Dan apakah itu benar-benar berpengaruh pada anggur yang diklaim produsen? Rupert Joy menggali lebih dalam untuk mencari tahu
Terroir adalah salah satu kata-kata desas-desus yang dianut semua orang di dunia anggur, tetapi apa artinya sebenarnya? Dan apakah itu benar-benar berpengaruh pada anggur yang diklaim produsen? Rupert Joy menggali lebih dalam untuk mencari tahu
menari dengan gaji bintang 2016
Di selatan Condrieu di Rhône utara terletak sebutan kecil Château-Grillet. Tanaman merambat seluas 3,4 hektar di lereng curam amfiteater alami menghasilkan anggur dalam jumlah kecil dari jenis anggur dan tanah yang sama dengan tetangganya yang jauh lebih besar, Condrieu. Tetapi telah diakui sejak 1936 sebagai AC terpisah, dan dijual dengan harga yang jauh lebih tinggi. Pemiliknya, Isabelle Baratin-Canet, menekankan bahwa orisinalitas anggur yang terbuat dari tanah granit dan eksposur yang menghadap ke selatan telah diakui selama berabad-abad. Tetapi beberapa tetangganya mempertanyakan apakah ada perbedaan antara terroir di Château-Grillet dan Condrieu.
Gagasan bahwa bidang tanah tertentu menghasilkan anggur yang sangat enak bukanlah hal baru. Filsuf, John Locke, yang mengunjungi Bordeaux pada tahun 1677, mencatat 'kekhasan di tanah' Château Haut-Brion yang membedakannya dari tetangganya. Sebuah buku oleh Abbot Arnoux, yang diterbitkan di London pada tahun 1728, menghubungkan kehebatan Montrachet di Burgundy dengan sebidang tanah tertentu di Côte d'Or.
Yang menjadi fenomena modern adalah penggunaan kata 'terroir' untuk mendeskripsikan ide. Konotasi Prancis aslinya bersifat merendahkan. Sampai pertengahan abad ke-20, vin terroité berarti anggur pedesaan yang bersahaja dengan, paling banter, semacam pesona yokel dan, paling buruk, kesalahan. Anggur dengan goût de terroir (rasa terroir) adalah anggur yang dibuat dengan jelek yang terasa seperti anggur mentah atau busuk. Gagasan tentang terroir sebagai atribut yang lebih positif tidak muncul sampai lahirnya sistem AC di tahun 1930-an.
Setiap orang memiliki definisinya sendiri tentang terroir. Mungkin yang paling sederhana adalah penulis anggur Amerika Matt Kramer, yang menggambarkannya sebagai 'ke suatu tempat'. Sebagian besar definisi Prancis, termasuk definisi INAO (badan yang bertanggung jawab atas sistem AC Prancis), mencakup empat elemen kunci: karakteristik fisik suatu tempat (terutama tanah dan paparan), iklimnya, varietas anggur yang digunakan, dan peran yang dimainkan oleh manusia. .
Tunangan 90 hari: sebelum 90 hari musim 3 episode 8
Hanya sedikit orang yang akan membantah premis dasar bahwa anggur memperoleh karakteristik tertentu dari tempat anggur mereka ditanam, dan bahwa manusia berperan dalam mengekspresikan karakteristik tersebut. Tetapi mengingat bahwa hampir setiap produsen anggur saat ini mengklaim memproduksi anggur yang menghormati terroir, dan mengklaim mengambil pendekatan 'non-intervensionis', konsumen memiliki banyak alasan untuk bertanya-tanya apa arti terroir dalam praktiknya.
siapa yang dinominasikan pada kakak laki-laki
Akar terroir
Mungkin karena kata tersebut mirip dengan 'medan', kita cenderung mengasosiasikan terroir terutama dengan tanah. Hal ini pada gilirannya dapat mendorong persepsi bahwa anggur secara langsung mendapatkan rasa dari tanah tempat anggur ditanam.
Contoh klasiknya adalah Chablis, salah satu anggur paling terkenal di dunia. Meskipun dibuat dari varietas anggur yang tersebar di mana-mana, ekspresi Chablis di Chardonnay tidak seperti yang terlihat di wilayah lain. Anggur paling terkenal berasal dari napal kapur Kimmeridgian yang lembut, yang terdiri dari cangkang tiram prasejarah.
Produsen dan penulis anggur sering menghubungkan antara rasa khas anggur yang mengandung yodium dan kondisi geologi daerah itu. 'Bagaimana lagi Anda bisa menjelaskan nada beryodium di Chablis jika bukan dari komposisi tanahnya?' Tanya Bernard Billaud-Simon. 'Anda tidak akan menemukan rasa ini di Chardonnays yang ditanam di tempat lain.'
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